It’s hard to see, but the central teeth are still dirty, so I kept going. When the blades look really shiny and reflective, I know I’m close to done.
So when I can still see bits of dirt and rust I keep going. Because you can’t test sharpness until they are put back together, I use cleanness to indicate sharpness. Keep even pressure across the blade to sharpen the whole length as evenly as possible.Ĭheck the blades regularly to see how clean they are getting. This one is a bit more challenging as you have to avoid biting into the edge of your stone with the underside of the blade, and have to try to keep things flat.įinally, I make circles with the blade along the stone.įrom what I understand, using these different motions allows you to avoid making waves/divots in your stone, but also helps you sharpen different parts of the blade. I also run just the edge of the blade across the edge of the stone. First, moving the blade straight up and down square to the stone. Keep adding water to your stone and blade as you go, you want it to stay wet (not underwater, but not just damp) the whole time. You’ll start seeing dirty/gritty water appear on the stone, and that’s good! That grit is what helps clean up your blade. Once the blade is on the stone with water, you just start rubbing it along the stone with firm and even pressure. You are going to sharpen to the two flat sides of the toothed blade the sides that sit facing one another when the clippers are put together.
You should be able to tell the grit level of your stone by feeling it - there’s a big difference between 10 grit. For the blades that had only done a trace clip on one horse since they were last sharpened, I only used the fine grit side (which is why my animations are a bit different from the pictures here). Next, plop some water on your sharpening stone and get ready to get dirty! I started on the coarse (1000 grit) side of the stone, and moved to the fine side (4000 grit I think, but maybe 6000) to polish/finish it off. But you can see dirt and rust on the interior of the blades (this is my wide T84 blade, but it comes apart just the same as the other blades). I tried to take some pictures of how dirty/rusty my blades were, but it was not the easiest picture ever. Step by step take-apart image below.īrush all of the hair and dirt and grit out of your blades with a small brush (often comes with clippers), or if you lost it like me, a paper towel. Try to keep the top two pieces together so that you don’t have to fiddle around with them later. There are only four pieces (plus two screws) that you have to keep track of, so it’s not too horrifying to take apart. Use your rag towel to provide a surface to keep all your pieces together, and to stabilize your whetstone when you start sharpening. Don’t try to use a butter knife, it won’t work. You simply need to loosen the two screws on the bottom of the clipper blades with your screwdriver. Then you have the slightly fiddly task of taking your clipper blades apart. I did not suggest an adult beverage because we are working with sharp objects, but you’re an adult, you can make your own choicesįirst, soak or otherwise prepare your whetstone.
Plus, I clipped my friend’s mare after doing a test-sharpen on my blades and found it pretty easy, even on her tight, thick hair. My father in law also pointed out that he’s never sharpened something and made it worse. This has been a public service announcement.A post shared by Nicole no sharpening expert, but I watched a bunch of youtube videos that all had the same basic consensus on the method, which seemed pretty easy. Anyhow, try rubbing alcohol next time you clip! I have clipped 3 adults and 2 babies with the same #10 Oster blade (extra wide) who were plenty hairy from winter. Fancy that! Normally after shaving a couple of horses from their winter coats the blades are dull and shot, but I still have plenty of cut left in this one blade I've been using. Not positive its the alcohol, but also for some reason I have done numerous body clips with the same blade without them getting dull. This cools them down right away completely! YAY! No more waiting for hot blades to cool off or having to change them. No more! Someone told me to use straight rubbing alcohol and run my blades in it. I normally would remove my blade, run it in blade wash and oil it, and then sit it on an ice pack covered with a wash cloth to cool it down. Maybe everyone else in the world already knows it and I've been spending way too much time sitting on a hay bale, but for those that need an idea that works, here you go. I had no idea this worked until the other day. Here is an Itty Bitty Tippy for you about cooling down your hot clipper blades:
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